Thank God It’s FAY Friday

Words: Abby Lowe

I’ve come to the conclusion that some people are just born to be good at life. They’re the kind of people who decide to do something and make it happen, the people who run a marathon before breakfast; the sort of people who make turning visions into reality look effortless. I am not one of those people – the only place I run to before breakfast is the kitchen and that’s because I’m hungry – but two people who definitely fit into that category are Christian and Merete Marstrander, who last year did everyone on the island a favour by opening the incomparable Cotton Beach Club in Cala Tarida, and this year have revved up yet another gear by opening its rooftop compatriot, FAY, which as expected, has all the markings of also being an unrivalled success. So yes, that’s two restaurants in two seasons, a fairly average achievement by anyone’s standards. They must put something in the water in Norway.

Last year Cotton Beach Club was one of the standout successes of the season. For a start – have you seen the view from this place? It is jaw-droppingly stunning. And then have you seen the venue itself? It’s a vision of contemporary, sandblasted design. And of course, it’s got the food and the vibe to back up all this aesthetic stuff. And now, with the addition of FAY, there’s an Asian fusion restaurant on the roof too. The white theme continues, but here, there are tiny of flecks of pink dotted about the space that subtly set it apart from downstairs. The chefs cook in an open kitchen among the diners and the view is that little bit more far-reaching. It’s got Cotton Beach magic written all over it but this time with a twist.

We head down on a scorching hot Friday afternoon. There’s already a touch of weekend spirit kicking at our heels, but by the time we leave we’re positively bouncing – there’s something about this place that gets your blood pumping. We’re taken upstairs to FAY and seated near the kitchen where we can see the chefs buzzing away. Our waiter for the afternoon is Isaac, and his knowledge of the menu, consisting of a combination of Thai, Japanese, Chinese and Indian cuisine, is unparalleled. He explains the inner workings of each dish he brings to the table, adding a whole new dimension to the dining experience. As such, we put our trust in him and the chef to make their recommendations, and so each plate that arrives over the course of the afternoon is a pleasant surprise.

First out are homemade papadums and edamame beans, closely followed by fresh, salty, oysters from the new Oyster Bar, tuna tataki marinated in sriracha and honey, and salmon ceviche, which Isaac explains has been marinated in seven different spices. I’m only a few mouthfuls in but I’m already melting into my seat with happiness – this line-up includes all my favourite things so far. The food keeps coming and there are no complaints from us. Next out are Thai-style dumplings, and FAY scallops – accompanied by mixed vegetables, Chinese cherry butter and pistachio pesto, they’re genuinely the best scallops I’ve ever eaten – I couldn’t fault them. And then followed some white fish carpaccio drizzled in the chef’s dressing of seawater, mint and shisha, and salmon with rainbow-coloured vegetables. We’re washing it all down with cool Chateau Castigno rosé, and I think this is what’s known as being in your element.

To finish we’re brought a platter of exotic fruits and creamy violet panna cotta, and then we get talking to the chef, Evert, who brings out some of FAY’s already infamous orange chicken, which is definitely not a dessert. It’s a plate of sweet, sticky deliciousness, but honestly if we start going backwards on the menu we’ll never leave, so this is as good a time as any to call it a day. Reluctantly I’m dragged from my seat, flapping my newly grown fins after all the fish I’ve eaten, and we head home. Christian and Merete, here’s to you, long may you remain over-achievers.

Reservations
t: +34 971 80 61 80
e: reservations@cottonbeachclub.com